Fall menswear fashion week started on Saturday in Milan. This season is supposed to run for 10 days with some shows running into the next Monday when Couture Week will begin (couture and Menswear are always organised together preventing editors and buyers flying back into Europe for one collection week).
It’s a bit early in the week to start stating who the stars of the show are as you never know what the last few days have in store. But so far the vibe I have been getting from Milan is a well dressed gentleman. Mega brands like Bottegeg Veneta, Burberry and Alexander McQueen shuffled men down the runway in suits but coming from a different era (Burberry sighting 80′s Sloane Rangers for example)
A well play for Christopher Bailey at Burberry because, it reek of being a quintessential British brand and what better way to show this than a collection of suits done in an absolute English manner. Using elements like flat caps, Babour jackets and gentlemen’s umbrellas to emphasise his point.
I have to say this collection is top of the list for me. A first for Alexander McQueen’s pieces being very grounded in reality but still evoking Victorian elements like the three quartered trousers and the cocktail tux below. (all hint to a time in the past but still very much wearable in today’s time)
Missoni on he other hand did what they do best. Comfort, smart casual pieces in their signature print. I especially like the shaggy knit-wear on the right, the crochet pattern gives the feeling of cobwebs.
Dolce & Gabbana:
With a runway backdrop of antique furnitures outlined in gold delved back into history, mirroring past Italian times with a little opera house reference. The collection was full of gold-embroidered brocade, splashed around every single piece of clothing. Especially the coats.
Quoted after the show to said “There’s not much you can do with men”. Tomas Maier showed single breasted suits and casual wear in a patch work of different materials. The patch work was done in a cubist form, shaping diagonal lines. I have to say regarding Mr Maier, he does have a fair point but I believe little ideas like thes are what makes menswear a tad bit exciting.
Moving on to the Minimalist.
I have to admit for minimal designers I always feel sad for them because it seems like they’re limiting their realm of design opportunity. Because, lets face it there is only so much a designer can produce under the minimalistic tree that is new and exciting.
But this season, yet again Raf Simon for Jil Sander and Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Kilen decide to prove me wrong.
Raf went down the The Batman/Gotham with a lot of black and leather. He said he wanted to “cross-generational thing: the man who is a father, the man who stays a boy.” not giving the look a specific age, just giving the aura of masculinity. The funny thing I take from this collection is that with all the leather in this collection you would think a fetish sense would arise, but that wasn’t the case. Instead I got something sinister-butch related.
While Italo on the other hand went down a different route of casual wear with a strong message of texture. In-cooperating what looks like alligator leather in fireman jumpers.
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